18 replies to this topic

[green-n-ugly]

I just got my used Delta Elite and I am a little torqued.  There was so much old paint covering the marker that it took 4 hours just to clean all of the external parts (barrel, etc.).

I ran into a snag last night when I opened the housing.  I am surprised that I could even move the bolt.  I know that I have to replace all of the internal o-rings, but I have a few questions:

1.  Can I soak the housing in any degreaser?  The paint is glued to the sides and the lube is a brown sludge (maybe slight rust ... who knows).

2.  Is there any internal components that I can upgrade?  I have never had a BT, but I had a Tippmann many years ago so I have a general idea about its workings since they are so close in many ways.

3.  How bad will the ball trajectory be affected if the Apex rubber tongue has a small grove?  My assumption is that it would create a big issue.

Any other help would be great.  I have another marker so I am looking to compare their game play.

The one thing I hate the most in paintball is people that do not take care of their markers!  Ticks me off!

[side-effects]

First off welcome to BT:WO and congrats on your Delta Elite! It will serve you well once you get it sorted.

1. You can soak the shells in degreaser. Just be careful what type you use and only soak it for short periods of time and check to make sure that it is not affecting the finish at all. I would think that it would not need an extended soak to do what you are tying to do.

2. There are parts that can be upgraded. Bolt, hammer, power tube. However none have showed any significant increase in performance or reliability so I would spend my money else where.

3. Paint quality has the single biggest effect on trajectory. The tongue would have to be pretty shreded before it would affect trajectory. That being said you can buy just the apex tongue for cheap. Less than 20 bucks.  

4. The only real advice I can offer (as the BT4 line of markers are pretty much bullet proof) is to only use good name brand batteries in the e-grip. The money saved on cheap batteries will quickly drive you crazy!

[green-n-ugly]

Thanks for the info.  I did a few searches, but I always get mixed up with all the extra info and comments.

I almost purchased an aluminum bolt, but I think I will put the money towards a part kit.

I heard a lot of bad things about batteries and e-grips.

Will get working on things tonight ... need to prepare for the West Point Combat Classic.

[Phantom]

Thou keep on mind if you use CO2 its worth getting alum power tube. The plastic one will crack from cold over time. I suggest get a HPA tank in the end its cheaper really and more consistent. But if HPA isn't for you use a remote which helps keep CO2 out of gun. Other then that look into polishing the internals many threads already on that. Ive beat my BT4's silly and they keep working, Ive never had problems with the gun internals only problem I have is like side-effects said batteries, and electronics attached i.e. rip clip and e grip.

[green-n-ugly]

I think I will definitely get the power tube.  Most of my games will have to be played in the winter due to my work schedule.

[Phantom]

Well its not needed even really in winter if you are using HPA (high Pressure Air) instead of CO2. So Im guessing your using CO2?

[Tenit]

I just went through the same thing as you after buying one from a kid.

Rubbing alcohol on an old squeegee  was the most useful in cleaning the inside of the barrel.  I soaked my shells in very warm water.  I can't believe mine actually shot paint.  

Then I polished internals got it all working then first game had a leak out the front.  O-ring was in pieces out the back of the valve.  BT Rangers video helped with the work.

Good luck!

[green-n-ugly]

When you guys talk about polishing the internals ... what do you mean exactly?

I have both HPA and Co2 so I will be switching back and forth as needed (based on the field or friend's house I play at).  I might have to replace the tube anyway based on what I find out after the cleaning tonight.

[Warmachine]

"polishing the internals"  is really about polishing the inside of the clamshell. As mentioned above there are several links on the forums that can assist you with technique and materials to do this. Polishing the internals will help the bolts move more freely back and forth which will provide you with longer lasting parts and better efficiency.

[Tenit]

There's a whole sub forum on it

http://bt.warrior-on...-the-internals/

[green-n-ugly]

That link was a HUGE help!

[SNAKEDOG]

The advise from everyone is solid...If you have not done so already....the old paint is hard but it will soften in hot water. Let is soak for a few hours. Check it  to see if the paint crusty crap has soften up and remove it using either a sponge or a scotch bright pad, Once you have removed all that crusted paint..As everyone mentioned polish the internal clambshell. Also very important. Is to use a very good quality oil. Lub up the internal clamb shell once you have polished it. Soak all internal parts to get the grease and crusty paint off. Replace all O rings( I believe you are doing that anyways)..Also as a degreaser. I use an orange agent cleaner I got from a bike shop. It is concentrated and works great for removing grease and oil. Then I wash the clambshells in hot soapy water and rince well. Re oil all the parts as needed. Once you put the marker back together.

[sameagol26]

green-n-ugly, on 09 September 2010 - 07:02 AM, said:

The one thing I hate the most in paintball is people that do not take care of their markers!  Ticks me off!

I friggin agree. If you pay as much as you do for these markers, then you would think that taking care of them wouldbe a key concern but apparently not. Just rich mommies and daddies spoiling there kids I guess. Its a shame.

[green-n-ugly]

Started the process last night.  It took about 3 hours for soaking and cleaning.  I had to take a toothbrush to everything!!!  I even found an area in the housing that had old glue on it.  Who in their right mind GLUES a marker's internal parts to the housing?!

Anyway, cleaning is complete.  I used a 2 gallon bucket of hot water with a 1/4 cup of 409 and soaked for about a 1/2 hour.  After that ... a thorough cleaning with soap and hot water.  Now it is time for the polishing.  Once it is finished I will post before and after pics.

This all happened between soaking and cleaning a 3 year old with a cold and a 1 year old that going through 'mommy withdraw'.

[Tenit]

Did you just dunk the kids in too and use the toothbrush?   I don't recommend polishing infants though.  The results have been mixed...start with the 3 year old.  

[sameagol26]

LOL!!!!

[green-n-ugly]

Kids have a lot of nooks and crannies so you have to clean extra thoroughly.

[longhornjake]

A tooth brush helps, though if you are considering using the dremel, be extra careful...when polishing infants or children.

[green-n-ugly]

Hey everyone.

Posted pics of the before and after in my gallery.  I am still trying to figure out how to navigate around BT's site so you will have to see them through my profile page ... I guess.

Anyway, finished everything and kept shootn 3-4 balls at a time.  Figured something was wrong.  Checked things out on BT and low-n-behold I forgot to put the detent back in place.  Go figure.

After that for some reason I chopped a ball or two and the entire hopper was full of paint.  Figured I didn't have the spring in RipClip wound enough.  So far it has been working great.  At this point I am swayed toward the BT for the fact that upgrading is mostly atheistic and the RipClip is designed for the BT (where as my other brand of marker has no reliable upgrades ... you have to experiment with everything).  BT is a pain to clean, but other than that I have no complaints.